After you have chosen your desired mode, step over the rope so it is on your right as you face the anchor. The ATC-XP is pretty straightforward to set up. In the very worst case, enough sheath bunching can get you stuck! I tend to use the “2” Mode except on 8mm raps longer than 60 feet, where I go to the “3” Mode or set up a leg loop biner (as shown in a future Tech Tip). Especially when wet, this can set up a disconcerting chattering action as the rope runs through the device in extreme cases, a clump of sheath can accumulate below your device. The high-friction side tends to “squeegee” the rope, encouraging the sheath to slip on the core. The features of the Critr allow easier performance of rescue tasks, should they be necessary.Īll hunky-dory, right? Well… I prefer the low-friction side of the ATC-XP. I prefer the Critr for wet and Class-C canyons, and for canyons with lots of rappels. When canyons involve more climbing and less rappelling, the ATC shines as it gets in the way less. I use the ATC-XP for canyons with few rappels, when I am going with competent partners, as the ATC is lighter and more compact than the Critr. It is not suitable for use in Class-C (flowing water) canyons, and should be scrupulously avoided as it does not tolerate twists in the rope and crap on the rope like Critrs or other Figure-8 based devices do. The ATC-XP is a pretty good rappel device for dry canyons ( Canyon Ratings), and non-flowing wet canyons (Class A and Class B). Using the Black Diamond ATC-XP For Canyoneering The ATC-XP also has more material, which results in a longer useful life. It features an asymmetric design, with one side providing significantly more friction. The ATC-XP was designed 10 years later by Jonny Woodward to provide more friction when using skinny 8mm ice-climbing ropes.
While there are many imitations, the original holds a dear place in my heart for its elegance of design. The Black Diamond ATC revolutionized belaying in rock climbing. Chuck also looked at the sharpness of the edge the rope passed over, and we made that edge sharper (than on a Sticht Plate) to generate more friction, thus providing the belayer with better control. By holding the slots a half-inch above the biner, rope could be fed under tension, and the mechanics of providing a good belay became much easier. My buddy Chuck Brainerd designed it as a variation on the Chouinard Micro-Belay Plates, which were really a variation on the Sticht Plate. The problem with Sticht plate devices was when the climber pulled hard on the rope, the plate would move down and lock against the carabiner, trapping the rope. I worked for Black Diamond in 1990-1991 when the ATC was developed and had a small role in its evolution.
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